Primers and Clear

Please read information page before ordering.

 

Primer is the basement of your paint job.  The quality of your primer will effect the quality of your paint job.  Paint prep is more important than the paint job itself.

Vintage Paint supplies you with a quality automotive enamel.  To achieve the paint potential that is supplied by vintage sleds the painter needs to use a quality priming system. 

If the painter uses a different primer than what we have tested, it is the painters responsibility to "test" compatibility of the products being used.  Incompatible products can "Lift" or "Wrinkle" during the painting process.

Sandblasted Steel

A "White Blast" Sandblasted steel is the best substrate that you can have.  BUT you must keep it clean and rust free prior to painting.  You must also give it enough fill to cover the sandblasting profile.  (Sandblast profile is the size of the "peaks" caused by the sandblasting process).  Running a sander over the sandblasted profile will help minimize the size of the peaks thus require less fill and potentially aid in the gloss level.  It is very important not to get body oils on a clean sandblasted surface.  Handle with gloves.

Over sandblasted steel I like a industrial high fill epoxy or enamel primer.  If using a automotive "low fill" epoxy, leaving reducer out or applying multiple coats may help the fill.  Then allow to dry and sand smooth.  This will give better gloss than applying paint directly to the primer without sanding.

Vintage Paint can supply you with a 1K self etch which is from the same manufacture as the paint which is good for bare steel.  It is not necessary nor desired to apply large amounts to painted surfaces or areas that have filler on them.  A self etch will aid to keep rust from spreading when the metal does get scratched and give better adhesion especially to smoother steel.  This is not a lacquer based product as most "cheap" self etches are.

 

Vintage Paint 2K Epoxy

This is a NEW OFFERING!

I have been working on the 2K primer for the aerosol.  Many said it couldn't be done.  Well, it's done and works GREAT!  The one limitation?  Shelf life.  Since it is an activated product it will eventually harden in the can.  So far, even in the summer heat, I have been getting 4 weeks out of the aerosol for life.  I am going to advertise 3 weeks to be on the safe side, shipping will eat up about 1 week of that, so you will have 2 weeks to use it up.  The quicker you use it, the better.  Keep the cans cool and you will see greater shelf life. 

The GOOD or should I say GREAT!  This is a high quality 2k epoxy.  This product has excellent fill, corrosion protection and adhesive qualities.  I will put this up against powder coating for durability ANY DAY.  I have been using this product out of a gun for many years.  It is proven itself to me and many others.  I will also make this available in quart kits and custom kits available just contact me.

Here are a few pictures of it in action.  Please go to this page for full directions on it's use and more information on ordering.

2k epoxy ski 2k epoxy ski 2k epoxy ski 2k epoxy ski

Vintage Paint 2K Epoxy 

2K Epoxy Black Aerosol $15.50 each, minimum of 3 (for more information click here)  
 
2k Epoxy Grey Aerosol $15.50 each, minimum of 3 (for more information click here)  
 
2K Epoxy White Aerosol $15.50 each, minimum of 3 (for more information click here)  
 
2K Epoxy Black Quart kit (2 quarts of product) (for more information click here) custom quantities available  
 
2K Epoxy Gray Quart Kit, (2 quarts of product) (for more information click here) custom quantities available  
 
2K Epoxy White Quart kit (2 quarts of product) (for more information click here) custom quantities available  
 

Vintage Paint 1K self etch.

Self Etch Primer Aerosol   $15.00
 
   

Vintage Paint also has a high solid, high fill enamel primer available.  This can go direct to bare steel without a self etch but I do recommend a self etch. I recommend this as a "fill" primer which requires sanding.  This will help fill minor imperfections along with sandblasting profile.  Sand with 400 grit when dry.  If imperfections still exist, re-prime and sand.  After sanding to a desired finish, you can either "seal" or go direct to paint.

Vintage Paint High fill Primer.

This is available in a white or a dark gray.  I highly recommend a white ground coat or primer under Yellow's, Orange's, and some Red's.

Primer White Aerosol             $15.00
 
Primer White Quart                $30.00
 
Primer Dark Gray Aerosol      $15.00
 
Primer Dark Gray Quart         $30.00
 

If there are any cut throughs after you sand the high fill, Vintage sleds has a non sanding primer sealer available.  This is not designed to have high fill, it also is from the same manufacturer as the paint which is designed to have the paint applied directly to it without sanding after a adequate "flash" or dry time.  It is best to apply the self etch and allow to flash to the bare steel again before applying the sealer, but this step is optional.  You can also use it as a "fill" primer and sand.  You will need more coats to obtain the same amount of fill as the high fill primer.

Vintage Paint Non Sanding Light Gray Primer/Sealer.

Vintage Paint Non Sanding Primer/Sealer Aerosol        $15.00
 
Vintage Paint Non Sanding Primer/Sealer Quart            $30.00
 

 

Smooth Steel or sanded Paint

When painting steel that has been sanded smooth or over sanded paint, you can go directly to the Non Sanding Primer.  Again, the self etch is a desired over bare steel, but is an optional step.  Any remaining rust should be treated with a metal prep or rust treatment before coating.

A high fill can be applied and then sanded for a smoother surface which will minimize imperfections.  Then apply a sealer or Vintage Paint non sanding primer.

Fiberglass

Fiberglass including Gel Coat or bodywork does not need a self etch.  You can go directly to Fiberglass or bodywork with a epoxy, urethane primer, or our high fill primer.  Then sand as very seldom are you going to be going down to bare fiberglass without having imperfections.  After sanding apply sealer or non sanding primer.

Please note when cleaning fiberglass:  Many wax and grease removers are NOT recomended due to the possibilty of static electricity causing a flash fire.  This could lead to property damage or injury.  Please use the proper cleaners.

Plastics

Plastics can be trickier to paint.  There are many types of plastic that are used in the Snowmobile world.  There are types of plastic that are not designed to be painted.  It is up to the painter to determine the type of plastic and the method required to paint it.

This page by Urethane Supply Company does a very nice job of describing the different types of plastic and it's repair procedures.

Polycarbonate/ABS Plastic

Polycarbonate and ABS were quite frequently used in hoods and can be a combination of the two types of plastic.  Please check out my Painting and Repairing Polycarbonate Page.

 

 

Clear Coat

A nice 4 to 1 clearcoat that is easy to spray and is compatible with our basecoat. 

Please note:  RTS and Urethane do not need to have clear coat applied and we do not recommend clear coating them.

4 to 1 clear coat quart kit.  1 quart of clear, 8 oz's of hardener.  $35.00 a kit