PolyAll 2000 test

 

Ok, lets face it.  All of us that have fiberglass hoods with cracked gelcoat (most all hoods ever produced!) are looking for the easy cure all.  I am going to go out on a limb, if a reproduction hood is available, get one!

So a reproduction hood is not in the cards?

I have heard of some people that praise this product called PollyAll 2000.  So with some product in hand, I played with a bit of it.  Here is a big hand to Dan (Rupp Luver) for allowing me to use some of his precious product!  The scrap hood was supplied by Ron, aka Goose

Here is a link to the PolyAll website.  I tried contacting PolyAll explaining what I was doing and asking for any tips and was ignored.  So, don't count on getting a reply for technical assistance.  Where is the unhappy face?

They do show PolyAll being used on fiberglass, but not in the manner that I have heard it being used for cracks in gelcoat.

In defense of any repair material, this hood is about as bad as they get.  But to me, that makes it a perfect candidate!

I did two different repairs. 

The first would be how I would probably do a real repair if I were using this to fill gelcoat cracks.  First I cleaned the surface with water.  I then used carb cleaner and a rag allowing the carb cleaner to float contaminations out of the cracks for a moment.  I then sanded fairly smooth with 80 grit on a DA Sander.  I wanted to make sure the cracks were level from side to side.  I then took carb cleaner on a red scuff pad and sanded the area hoping to clean out the cracks some more for good adhesion of our polyall 2000.  Wiping dry before the cleaner dries.  Wax and grease remover would be a good choice also.

The second repair was a lets see how it works type of repair.  I would not recommend this procedure, but I appreciate that not everyone has power sanders.  I only sanded this area with a  red scuff pad using carb cleaner more to clean the area and cracks.  That is all the prep this area received.

I then applied two coats of Polyall 2000 to both areas.  The product is very thin and sets very fast.  Only mix the amount that you can use in about 3 minutes.  The product goes along ways.  I mixed 15 grams of each product for a total of 30 grams.  I had a considerable amount left over.  I then used a "acid brush" to spread the polyall 2000 in our repair area.  I allowed to dry for about 2 minutes and applied another coat to both areas.

The website says that it can be sanded in 10 minutes at 70 degrees.  I would have to agree that this is true.  So, it is fast.

I then sanded with 180 on the DA Sander.  I basically removed the PolyAll from the top leaving it behind to fill the cracks.  I am going to say, that if you want better results from what I saw, a second application should be done.  I had some pin holes and the cracks could have had more product in them.  According to some literature that I saw, the polyall is supposed to get in the crack and actually expand into the crack.

For ease of use I used my aerosol white fill primer.  This has decent fill for an aerosol and is white for better coverage with yellow.  I put on about 5 coats.  I allowed to dry and sanded with 180 first and finish sanded in 320.  I also applied a "guide" coat so that I could see imperfections better.  A guide coat is a light coat of a contrasting color that shows when you have sanded out the imperfections as the contrasting color is gone.  A second coat of primer should have been applied.

I then painted with aerosol 71-75 Ski-Doo Yellow. 

So, how would I rate this product for this application?  If you want a quick down and dirty way to fill some stress cracks in gelcoat.  I think it will do fine.  This was an extreme example.  On this hood I would recommend removing the gelcoat via lots of sanding or sandblasting.  Spending a bit more time than I did would also yield better results.  But if you are doing a high dollar restoration for show, personally I would not use it.  Your mileage may vary.  I could see remnants of the crack after the paint and primer dried.  I was mildly surprised at how well the 2nd area looked with little prep.  Using a 2k primer and/or allowing more dry time would yield better results.  This was a quick test on a scrap piece.   I have heard that it may shrink as it cures down the road (as in years).  This could also be the actual gelcoat continuing to shrink from age rather than the PolyAll.

 Enough writing, lets see some pics.

polyall product polyall directions polyall test 1 polyall test 2
The Product Polyall Directions Initial Fiberglass with cracks Sanded and cleaned
polyalltest 3 Polyall test 5 Polyall test 6 polyall test 7
PolyAll applied PolyAll applied close up Polyall sanded test 2 Polyall from sanded test.  Note you can see a clear line where I had applied the polyall up to the masking tape.
polyall primed polyall primed polyall primed polyall painted
Polyall primed with guide coat applied Polyall primed and sanded Minimal prep area primed and sanded The finished product.  In person you could see where the Polyall had been applied, so it did some good.  With that said, once it fully cured, I could see the cracks again.  Another application of PolyAll and spending more time on primer should have helped that.
.

The product goes a long ways.  I mixed a total of 30 grams (15 grams each product) and had this much left over after doing these two areas.  polyall left over

Now for some bad news Polyall fans.  I received these pictures from a polyall user.  He says that he saw excessive shrinkage when the sled was stored in a hot area.  I don't doubt this, because I felt I saw some shrinkage with just using a heat lamp for about 2 hours. 

Polyall failure Polyall failure Polyall failure Polyall failure
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