FAQ Page (frequently asked questions)

Ordering Information

Please note:  All colors can be ordered in any size, any quality even if not listed in the shopping cart. 

Just email me your needs, and I will send you a paypal invoice or the correct amount if you wish to send a check.

Urethane $5.00 add on per qt.,$3.00 add on per pint  (Hardener is required)

Basecoat, $5.00 add on per qt, $3.00 add on per pint, $1.00 add on per aerosol.

You live in Canada or other Non USA countries?  Please read this

If your color is not listed?

I may have a formula but just have not had a sample to verify it with.  Email me for further information. 

If I do not have a formula, I can probably create one in a reasonable amount of time.  To do this I will need a good sample.  Many collectors have already sent me samples for me to work off of.  A drive axle retainer seems to be a good item to ship me, never seen sun, easy to pull, and easy to ship.  I prefer painted pieces, but if the color was only offered in plastic or fiberglass we will have to work with that.   Once I have a sample, then I will create a color.  Parts sent to me will of course be returned to you if requested.

 I cannot create a color from a competitors custom paint formula. 

You have a "paint code" that someone has used.  I will not offer that as a official color until verified as most that I have seen have needed minor to major tinting to meet my color standards.  But I can most likely mix it.  Email me for further information.

Product questions.

You have some questions about using an aerosol spray can?  Check here.

You have some questions about the 2K aerosol?  Check here.

You have some questions about paint terminology?  Check here.

What chemical make up is your paint?  This is a 1K Acrylic Enamel unless you option for the true urethane or basecoat versions.  These are also available.  I do recommend basecoat for the high metallic colors.

 

What will basecoat paint do for me?

Basecoat paint will allow you to clear coat the paint.  Single stage paint (or 1K) is not designed to be cleared and may lift if you try to.  Basecoat allows much easier metallic control for a more uniform look.  If the paint is a metallic, the clear will allow you to color sand and buff if you desire.  Sanding a single stage without clear that is a metallic will usually leave you with a dark spot because you sanded off the lighter coat of metallic.   2K Clear should give you the best UV protection against fading.

 

Why should I consider 2K products?

2K (or adding hardener) give you a lot of benefits.  The 2K will stand up to fuel and other harsh chemicals found around a snowmobile much better than a 1K.  Probably the largest reason though is adhesion.  Better adhesion will minimize chipping of the paint.  The hardener cross links with the previous coat and creates a better bond.  Adding hardener will generally give you better gloss also.  Another big reason to add hardener is reparability of the paint should the need arise.  Without hardener you can get lifting at the repair edge, with hardener this is much less likely to happen when applied over a 2K primer/sealer.  I have tried to make using 2K very easy and affordable.  $12.50 will get you enough hardener for a quart, urethane up grade is only $5.00.  And we now have 2K aerosols if you prefer aerosols.

Can I make my basecoat a 2k Product?

Yes you can.  Hardener can be added at 1 ounce to a sprayable quart.  This will aid adhesion to both your primer/sealer and clear.  This also helps with metallic control.  I personally do not spray basecoat without adding hardener.  $12.50 gets you 4 ounces, so this will activate 1 gallon of basecoat paint!

What are the differences in primers?

Without going into extreme information overload, here are some very basic advantages and disadvantages.

2K Epoxy:  This will give you the best for most circumstances in the snowmobile restoration.  Especially over sandblasted steel.  Epoxy gives you great adhesion to most substrates, but it also give you corrosion protection if it does get scratched.  This will give you the best fill also when needed especially over sandblasted steel.  My 2k primer will give you excellent adhesion and a rock hard surface.  It can be used to prime something for storage.  Many primers will not give adequate storage protection and can rust.

2K urethane primers:  These will sand better and dry faster than an epoxy.  They generally cannot (I personally will not) apply over bare steel.  Generally used to fill minor imperfections that have been left behind from body work.

1K Enamel Primer:  Any enamel primer that does not require hardener.  These are generally designed to be sprayed and painted without sanding.  However you can apply multiple coats, allow to dry and sand.  While it won't give you the advantages of the 2K epoxy, it is probably the next best thing on sandblasted steel.

Lacquer Primer:  Most primer aerosols are a lacquer.  I do not sell any of this.  Lacquer is very low in solids and is very brittle.  Most lacquer primers in an aerosol does not leave enough product behind and I have seen lifting issues if you try to recoat with my product.

Self Etch Primer:  Most self etch primer is designed to be applied first, very thin, than either prime or seal over before paint.  Not following this recommendation can lead to the paint pealing off the primer.  My self etch does have some minor fill and can be top coated directly too.

 

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